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ABC'S: ANIMAL BEHAVIOR

CONCERNS & SOLUTIONS

A Question & Answer Forum For Animal Professionals

All content © by Diana L. Guerrero unless otherwise noted and may not be reprinted without prior written permission. All rights reserved. Click here for reprint permissions and fees.

Welcome to the ABC's! Animal Behavior Concerns & Solutions is an animal behavior column written by animal behaviorist and animal trainer, Diana L. Guerrero. This section is dedicated to animal training techniques for all animals and pets, and topics related to operant conditioning and reinforcement. This page is dedicated to animal training techniques for a problem cockatoo. This evaluation for bird training is for a private facility. For pet training please visit the pet sections, see our pet behavior booklets in the shop, or click here for enrollment information for classes and teleseminars.

Bird Evaluation Basics: Screaming or Squawking

Question
We are having problems with a cockatoo who has begun screaming when the primary caretaker leaves the room. The animal also has begun to bite another caretaker when their attention is not focused solely on the bird. Can you make any recommendations?

Background
This animal never exhibited behavioral problems prior to the prolonged absence of the primary caretaker. (This bird is now housed at the caretaker's private residence.) Although it is claimed that this creature is wild caught, it was obtained at a bird expo--so the history is suspect. The undesirable behavior currently escalates when the primary caretaker is out of sight. It is unknown if the biting behavior occurs when the primary caretaker is present. There are no plans to incorporate another bird into the dynamic or to house this animal with conspecifics.

Based on the limited information submitted, I believe an inexperienced caretaker accidentally reinforced inappropriate behavior. I also believe that the bird's sexual maturation has complicated matters. The combination of the two would explain learned behaviors for attracting attention and the rivalry with the secondary caretaker.

Log behavior occurrences with time and duration of behavior, actions, and results.
Keep a piece of paper in a handy place so you can log the occurrences of screaming behavior. Be sure to do so for a minimum of two weeks and throughout behavior modification efforts. It is important that you identify any patterns so you can anticipate and replace them with more appropriate behavior. Two years of bad behavior MAY mean at least 8-16 weeks of consistent efforts to extinguish behavior.

Early dawn and dusk vocalization sessions may be correlated to natural flock behavior and not be extinguishable (but perhaps controllable in terms of duration). Other times may be correlated to attention seeking behavior (I believe to be your case), feeding time, or related patterns of activity. Fear can be another reason an animal squawks.

Provide suitable confinement and occupation.
This bird should never be perched higher than chest level in the cage or on humans. Daily activities and interactions are needed and enrichment should be rotated weekly. Provide two to three occupational devices (bird puzzles are good) and daily food enrichment (nuts, corn on the cob, etc). In addition to normal housing, provide a T perch or play perch, and a time-out cage in an isolated area of the residence.

Allow the bird to be in close proximity to the humans during daily routines (on T-perch or play perch). Grooming, handling, and attention should be done with full attention by owners at all times.

Identify warning behaviors and prevent poor behavior before it starts.
Birds telegraph the intent to vocalize and bite. Recognize signals and intercept with warnings and replacement activities. You can also verbally warn the bird of an impending time-out. One owner should not interfere with the other's actions during bird reprimands. Duo verbal warnings can be appropriate.

Conduct specific training exercises.
"Step up" and "up" need to be reinforced through consistent behavior of coming onto dowel (or arm) and off by request. If coming out from the cage: ask once, if no response, ask again, then if no response you withdraw and the bird loses the opportunity to come out until you begin again in an hour or so. Ignore the bird if she begins screaming.

Introduce consistent phrases and activities.
"Up" or "Step Up" for mounting/dismounting perch or arm.
If worried about biting, use a dowel for coming in and out of cage. Both owners should use the same technique and tools for consistency. Agree on the parameters of the rules.

"No" or "Knock it off" etc., spoken firmly but quietly for inappropriate behavior. Don't engage in an ongoing tirade--as it is reinforcing. You can also ignore the bird or give it a time-out outlined below.

"Time-out" must be in separate cage from main activity quarters. (You can also use a crate.) Time outs are NEVER longer than 10 minutes and not to be done in the existing cage unless the bird is already in the cage. Abandon the room during the time out if this is the case. Use a timer so you don't forget the bird. Avoid verbal interactions and any reinforcement via eye contact during this activity or during transport to the time out area.

"Bed time" or other phrase for lights out and sleep.
Cover the bird or close off the area and be consistent for the timing of lights out.

"Good _____" specify activity being rewarded. Good quiet, etc.,

Reprimands.
Use the word "No" "knock it off" etc., and withdraw attention.

Time-out as outlined above.

Earthquake: Twist (or quickly lower) the arm (without verbal interactions) where the bird is perched for the inappropriate action of biting.

Bite Stick: You may want to utilize a smaller stick or dowel if you are battling biting. It is used as a replacement bite object, barrier, or distraction to help you redirect the behavior and prevent a bite.

Barrier: Consider using a barrier around the stick to protect your hand. There are commercial products on the market or you could construct one yourself using the end of a large plastic soda bottle and fitting over one end (where your hand is).

Provide proximity enrichment.
Incorporate the bird into social areas where it earns attention and proximity only through good behavior. Pay particular attention to a quiet and well-behaved bird! You may want to move the main cage out of its current location and bring the bird into social areas via play perches. Your daily activities might be interesting for the bird to observe. So provide a mobile perch so she can observe you. Make sure to give the bird activities to engage in while you are working.

Increase reinforcement of quiet behavior.
Increase praise when the bird is engaged in desirable behavior. Use scratching, attention, water misting, and occasional treats.

Plan interactive times.
Each caretaker should spend quality alone time with the bird. Quality of personal time, not the quantity, is important.

Be persistent and consistent and let me know how you progress.

Are you a reader with a question? Be sure to submit it--and good luck in all your training endeavors!

About the columnist: Since 1978 Diana L. Guerrero has worked professionally with both wild and domestic animals. Guerrero has been affiliated with, and certified by, a variety of animal programs in the USA and Europe. Based in California, she writes, consults, and speaks. Information on her animal career programs, training courses, and her books {What Animals Can Teach Us about Spirituality (SkyLight Paths, 2003), Blessing of the Animals (Sterling, 2007), Help! My Pet is Driving Me Crazy (Guerrero Ink, 2007), Animal Disaster Preparedness for Pet Owners & Pet Professionals (Guerrero Ink, 2007)} can be found in this web site and in the shop. Questions for Guerrero should be submitted via the blog comments or membership forum.

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